East Cape

The East Cape is one of the most sparsely populated areas, and rarely visited. However with hearing about its rugged coastlines and scenic landscape around the peninsula we knew it would be worth a visit.With the old girl filled with fuel, and the cupboards stocked with food we set off into the sunshine.Whangara is a small settlement by the sea, where the film Whale Rider was shot, as one of the inspirations for coming out here, I wanted to take a look at the place however it became apparent that access was only gained by being welcomed by someone from the village, and without a sole in sight we left it be.Tolaga Bay once visited by Captain Cook in 1769, then by us in 2010 is where we walked along the 660m wharf, the longest concrete jetty in the southern hemisphere. Although breezy, it would be a nice place to hang out with a rod and catch supper. Perhaps next time we will be better equipped, we would also be able to do the cooks walkway, which takes you through the bush to reward you with views of the bay, unfortunately this time is was closed due to the lambing season.To freedom camp around the cape you first have to gain permission from the council and prove to be self containing, with this we were then able to choose which glorious beach to camp out by. Tokomaru once a busy port is now a small Maori community and where we spent the rest of the day, idling in the sun and swimming in the sea. The next day we pretty much continued along at the same slow pace, we arose early to watch sunrise, as the cape is one of the first places in the world to feel the sun each new day.We did travel a little further on to Waipiro beach and found ourselves at a beautiful secluded inlet with a beach scattered with driftwood, shells and a huge bone!As well as a good name Tikitiki is a small village which has a restored Anglican church, although plain from the outside there is elaborate maori design and carving on the in, with maori designed stained glass to match.We also took the dusty cliff clinging 21km road out to the East Cape Lighthouse, where we welcomed the exercise of walking up the 755 steps. Perched on a hill is the most easterly lighthouse in the world, Whangaokeno island can be seen from the top and is the original home for the structure. The story is told of the tough island life for the families of the lighthouse, being isolated from the mainland and being exposed to the elements.As the sun reappeared we went in search of a water hole in Hicks Bay, and were delighted to find a rope swing ideal for a plunge with a difference.After being told about a brilliant new NZ film called ‘Boy’ we took advantage of being able to camp at Waihau Bay where many of the scenes were shot. As a small fishing community, we were extremely lucky to be there when Paul arrived. With a plentiful catch he offered us some fish for tea, a snapper, a gurnard and a freshly steamed crayfish all fresh caught 20mins before. The pictures reveal our enjoyment and delight, it also sparked our desire to get a rod and have a go. tucked up in the camper we laughed and cried our way through the film, of course we had bought it, luckily its a fantastic film and worth having.The drive to Opotiki involved twisting up steep bluffs and dropping down to desolate beaches, after arriving we then made the decision to take the winding road through the Waioeka Gorge back to Gisborne, with little reason to stop, we just took our time enjoying the scenery, following the river through the steep hills.Passing road cyclists at first we soon became aware of an endurance event taking place involving cycling, then paddling, and cycling again, down through the Gorge. The river looked good and a return trip to paddle it would definitely be worth it.We didn’t expect to stay for long in Gisborne, however a trip out to Rene Rock Slide which is as fun as it looks and more, is where we met Matthew and Cheree. An absolute lovely couple who welcomed us back to their place and with the sea on their doorstop we were soon all out catching waves, swapping surf boards and learning some moves. I’ve had some much appreciated girl time, going to a local Zumba class and joining in with her team to play netball. Lee is getting clued up with surfing and the importance of helping out around the house. Its bin really interesting hearing about growing up in South Africa and we hope to keep in contact as they take their own journey.Thank you again for everything guys, and on that note, with our new fishing rod in hand...I shall bid you farewell.Lots of love Emma and Lee xxxxxx